So how do we figure all of this out? Through flavor; by putting our nose into the glass and taking a deep breath. Every time we smell whisky, images appear, creating olfactory illusions#1, which provide clues about the characteristics of the whisky. If you like, this image itself is a map, telling you information about distillation, oak barrels, and time. As Roman Kaiser, a fragrance expert at Givaudan, wrote in his book Meaningful Scents Around the World: "Our sense of smell allows us to connect with other living beings."
In life, we are constantly smelling. Scents help us understand the world, but we often do this unconsciously. In the 18th and 19th centuries, philosophers and scientists regarded vision as the superior sense, while the sense of smell was "a primitive, coarse ability associated with savagery and even madness." Kaiser believes this was a deliberate devaluation of smell by people at the time. Another situation is that as we age, we easily forget to consciously smell things. Since we already know the scent of flowers, why differentiate between daffodils and irises? In fact, when we focus on tasting a glass of whisky, many of the images that appear in our minds come from childhood, proving that at some point in our lives, we were indeed painstakingly smelling things.
Flavor—by which I mean aroma and taste—is the ultimate criterion we use to differentiate whiskies. Perhaps we are attracted to the packaging, find the price particularly enticing (or intimidating), or become fascinated with the whisky’s region of origin. However, the main reason we buy a glass or bottle of whisky is that we like its flavor. This flavor attracts us, speaks to us, and moves us.
But what do the images in our minds represent? Vanilla, crème brûlée, coconut (1970s suntan oil), and pine indicate that the whisky has been matured in American oak barrels. What about images of dried fruit and cloves? That suggests it has been aged in sherry casks. Pictures of spring meadows—lush green grass and wildflowers—indicate a long, slow distillation process, where steam and copper have engaged in a lengthy conversation. Those who associate a whisky with barbecue aromas are recognizing a short copper interaction, perhaps achieved using a worm tub. Strong, but well-ordered aromas? Most likely Japanese whisky.
Pick up a glass of bourbon. Do you feel spice and sourness suddenly hitting the back of your tongue? That's the rye at work—the stronger the spice, the higher the rye content in the grain recipe. Do you sense the oily texture of Irish whiskey? That’s the unmalted barley. The smoky sensation in Tennessee whiskey? That’s the result of the charcoal mellowing process. These flavors are natural, some originating from the distillery, others from the oak barrels, or from the long interaction between the two—resulting in that leathery, mushroom-like, and sometimes even funky richness found in older whiskies.
Can't quite pinpoint the flavor? Close your eyes and think about which season this whisky reminds you of. This will not only help you focus on the aroma but also guide you on the best way to enjoy the whisky. A whisky that evokes spring might be best served cold, perhaps with ice, as an aperitif. One with rich autumnal aromas? It's perfect to savor slowly after dinner.
The kaleidoscope of whisky aromas—from spices and fruits to honey, smoke, and nuts. Not only are these scents deeply connected to the real world, but they also evoke our memories.
No other spirit possesses such a complex array of flavors, nor can any other spirit span such a wide spectrum—from whisper-soft to heavily peated and smoky—on the aroma scale. Don’t think of a whisky as just a brand; think of it as a collection of flavors. If you understand flavor, you understand whisky. Let’s begin our exploration now.
#1 Olfactory Illusions: The characteristics of whisky are expressed through the images conjured in the mind of the taster.